The Lintong came in a shade dark

This week's Lintong came in a shade dark. Cedar and baker's chocolate, the way it always reads, but with a longer, earthier finish that settles at the back of the cup and stays through the second sip. Della blames the rain. Number Nine blames no one.

It is not a mistake and it is not a new profile. Lintong is wet-hulled, and wet-hulled coffee does what it wants. Number Nine sulks when the air is wet and runs hot the moment it forgets to, and somewhere between the two this lot came out heavier than the last. Some bags land clean. Some land like this. We happen to like this one.

Brew it to suit it. Taken light, give it a coarser grind and a longer pour and it opens right up. Taken as espresso, Beatrice permitting, it pulls like a dark chocolate bar. The National rings it up at 19 either way.

What it will not do is taste like last month's bag. That is the whole point of buying coffee from people and a moody drum roaster instead of from a factory. A factory gives you the same cup forever. We give you Tuesday's.